Up early, raring to go. Took advantage of the Hilton's breakfast buffet. I'd forgotten how much I like crepes! I'd reserved a car for our trip to the Ice Hotel for later in the afternoon so we spent the morning playing tourist. As we left the hotel, we ran into our taxi driver, Guy-Jean, politely turning down his offer of a ride and tour. We cruised by Bonhomme's castle and were delighted to see that youth category snow sculpture contest had begun. Fanciful shapes that only a child could envision were on display.
Crossing the Grand Allée, we entered the Plains of Abraham. These snow-covered battlefields played a central role in Quebec City's history. In February, it is the site of many of the Carnival's events including the international snow sculpting contest, events for the kiddies like an ice maze and ice slides, ice fishing, a warming hut for adults offering "fortified" coffee, snowtube rides, sleigh rides, snowmobile and even dogsled rides. Below is TeamUSA's entry entitled "Guardian Angel".
At noon, we rented our car, checked out of the Hilton and ran into Guy-Jean again. I explained that we were headed for the Ice Hotel. He looked up saying "Hotel Frontenac?" and proceeded to give us directions there. Rather than try to explain not Frontenac Hotel, the Ice Hotel, I thanked him for his directions. Loaded luggage into the car and as we're pulling out of the driveway, there's Guy-Jean following us to make sure we made it to the Frontenac! For a moment, I envisioned him as our Canadian "handler" similar to those "provided" to tourists in the former East Germany. I blew through the red light, losing him in traffic...
The Avis rental ran well but the windshield wipers were shot leaving a smeared mess. Stopped a another office where we did a quick exchange and were quickly mobile again. Stopped for some food shopping since we'd be staying at one of the villas at Duschenay after our night at the ice hotel; We didn't worry about refrigeration as the digital thermometer stubbornly avoid rising to positive digits. Delayed our departure for a quick bite of fast-food. I'd just placed my order when lights started flashing and horns started blaring. Was I the 1,000,000th customer, soon to receive all kinds of wonderful gifts for my lucky timing? Nope. It was a false fire alarm.
The Ice Hotel
Constructed of 10,000 tons of snow and 350 tons of ice, this 30,000 square foot hotel accommodates up to 85 overnight guests in 31 guest rooms. Over 6,000 blocks of ice, some weighing 75 pounds apiece make up the 125 foot wide and 50 foot deep Ice Hotel. Intricate ice chandeliers hang from cathedral ceilings in the Grand Hall.
It takes a team of 20 craftsmen working 12 hour days, six days a week, a full five weeks to construct the hotel. Some finishing touches were being done to suites as we watched. Unlike most hotels, there is no cheap artwork of fawn-eyed kids or kittens and puppies on the walls. Instead, intricate ice sculptures and bas-relief art abound.
At the aptly named bar Le N'ice, beverages are served in glasses made of ice, tables and chairs are sculpted from ice (as are the beds in the private rooms). Beds? Ice? What could we possibly have been thinking when we made reservations?
This is the third Ice Hotel located in North America. In 2001, it was located in Montmorency Falls Park in Beauport and offered lodging for 12 guests. 2002 saw the site moved to Duchesnay where it accommodated 60 guests. In 2003, the Ice Hotel returned to the station écotouristique Duchesnay, about 40 klicks (24 miles) west of Quebec City. This area is but one jewel of SEPAQ which develops and operates parks, preserves and resorts in the province of Quebec. All types of winter activities can be found at Duchesnay. From the expected such as cross-country skiing and snowmobiling to more esoteric pursuits like dog sledding and igloo making, Duchesnay is a magnet for outdoor winter enthusiasts.
Our room at the Ice Hotel consisted of a table, seat and bed. The ice bed had wood planks (for insulation), foam mattress (for comfort) and deer pelts (for ambiance). Our candle flickered on the ice table in the 28 degree temperature. As cold as that sounds, it was 50+ degrees warmer than outside where the mercury had plummeted to -22.2 degrees. Sleeping bags rated to -30 degrees are kept in a nearby heated building and would be offered to us when we were ready to retire for the night. Rest rooms are located in a heated structure located in the Ice Hotel courtyard.
After reviewing our accommodations, MSO and I headed over to the Le N'ice Club. This is a new attraction at the Ice Hotel, implemented to provide yet another inducement to visit this offbeat attraction. Asolut sponsored the bar so it was only natural that vodka be the drink of preference. There's something strange about drinking vodka from a glass of ice. There's something strange about the entertainment, too. We just didn't expect the variety! Depending on the night you visit, you may be entertained by a DJ spinning disks featuring classic rock like The Boss - Bruce Springsteen, by the Howlin' Hound Dogs doing a 50's "Rockabilly" , by Robert Lavoie and the Cat Scat Band show featuring the sounds of Swing or by latin pop music featuring Ice Band Saturdays with Frédérick Germain. Guests danced to the tunes - In full winter apparel.
Included in the accommodation charge is a delightful four course dinner. The meal is served in a nearby heated structure ensuring that the courses would be both filling and hot. My appetizer consisted of veal & game terrine followed by the main course of a 10 oz. steak with Morel sauce. MSO enjoyed Crostini followed by leg of rabbit. The soup course consisted of creamy carrot soup. Dessert was a choice of french pastries.
Deciding to hit the car for a quick warm up, we listened to french versions of american rock. MSO had brought a digital indoor/outdoor thermometer. We watched as the temperature dropped to zero, then really started to plummet. We scurried back into the comparative warmth of the ice hotel, caught some of the musical entertainment, then headed off to our room. Earlier, we had received an orientation regarding our night and what to expect. It was stressed that we should not overdress. The trick was to avoid overheating. Perspiration will eventually chill you making for an unpleasant night. Hats, however, are a good idea. The sleeping bags provided are of arctic quality. They have a removable silk liner which is cleaned daily and provides additional insulation.
The night passed uneventfully.