Decided to return to Quebec City on route 369, opting to see something different than our outbound trip. Everything looked pretty much the same; houses under feet of snow, snowbanks soaring over our car, a two-stage snowplow, the blade and an outrigger - a novelty for MSO and me. Leave it to the Quebecois to know how to handle massive amounts of snow!

We arrived at our hotel, this time the Raddisson. A nice size room overlooking the outdoor heated pool from which billows of steam rose from the 70 degree water. We just had time to grab a cab to the banks of the St. Lawrence River, another body of water from which steam rose. At below zero air temperatures, all water steams.

We cheered as the canoes paddled by in the race finals. We didn't see any of the ice-floe jumping which have made these canoe races famous. All the ice was on the opposite bank in the town of Levis. I did find a picture of the famed Chateau Frontenac team at an exhibit at the hotel. Next year, we'll scout out the course before race time.

We wandered around Petit-Champlain and Sous-le-Fortat at the base of cap Diamant. This is the oldest area in Quebec City dating back over 300 years and is known as Lower Town. Small shops catered to the tourist trade. MSO and I found a charming Beer & Wine House - Bistrot George Le Pape. Fare of  fresh fruit, bread and cheese were available. The Belgian White was good but the Cream Ale was great! High above us, the land rose hundreds of feet. At the very top, we could see the Chateau Frontenac's imposing walls and turrets. Rather than climb the steep Escalier Casse-Cou--"Breakneck Stairs", we chose to ride the Funicliar to Upper Town.

Dave 5
Monday
Le Massif

Freely translated, Le Massif means "solid mass" in Quebec's dominant language - French. It is also the name of a ski resort located some forty-five miles down the St. Lawrence river. Le Massif brags of having the highest vertical drop east of the Canadian Rockies, 2,526 feet. The approach from Quebec City brings you to the summit of the mountain. The eastern approach brings you to the mountain's base. Lodges offering food services, rentals and tickets are available at both top and bottom.

Despite my 195 cm K2 skis gathering dust for the past half decade, I'd skied New England, Rocky Mountain and Watsach slopes for three decades prior to my self-imposed leave of absence. I fondly remember the charge you'd get carving through a mogul field, the wind whipping you cheeks to a cherry red. I also remember catching an edge as I  wound up impersonating an ostrich, but what the heck, I may have gone home black and blue but never sporting plaster!

MSO and I drove northeast to Le Massif on Monday morning. I was raring to hit the slopes while she was content to hang in the lodge for a while, then visit nearby Baie-St-Paul where the walls of the Roman Catholic basilica can be seen for miles. Ski technology has advanced light-years since I'd pounded the slopes. Back then, parabolic skis were something I'd looked at with an arched eyebrow; Snowboards were still in their infancy. Today you can't find a new pair of straight skis so I got my first taste of parabolic skis.

I knew I'd be rusty having not done this for too many seasons, but was stunned at the performance of the rented parabolic skis. After remembering the basic moves, it was like I'd never taken a five year break from skiing.

Le Massif has 36 trails but offers a variety of levels from novice to foolhardy. Many of the slopes offer panoramic views of the ice encrusted St. Lawrence River. Crowds were nonexistent. Many of the chairs on the chairlift were empty and there was seldom another skier in sight (allowing me the occasional quick nip of the flask). Snow conditions were excellent bordering on outstanding - Some packed powder, some fresh powder and a couple of icy patches to keep me on my toes.

Le Massif offers a great bang for your US buck! Full day lift tickets are $38.25C ($26US), ski rental runs from $20C for alpine skis to $39C for high performance models. And those great parabolics I tried? $25C. All prices plus tax.
 

Montmorency Falls

Minutes from Quebec City, these icefalls are interesting. Unfortunately, the gondola transporting visitors to the top of the falls doesn't operate in winter so we were had to be content to view the sheets of ice from the base. The falls are higher than Niagara Falls and I suspect that the ice sheets are truly phenomenal in March.

A Fun Carnival Event

It's called Skating with Bonhomme, the snowman mascot of Winter Carnival. Dozens of skaters glided around the rink, Hydro Quebec's contribution to the Carnival. The star was Bonhomme who would circle the rink while holding on to small children's hands. The delight in most of the youngster's eyes was obvious. MSO and I didn't skate, opting instead to snap pictures of fun.